One of the things that makes Antica Casa Scarpa such a unique winery is its vast library of back vintages. And not just back vintages of Barbera d’Asti La Bogliona (its top wine), Barolo, and Barbaresco.
The wine cellar at Scarpa, which stretches back to the 1970s and beyond, also includes bottlings of other native Piedmontese grape varieties, like the Scarpa Dolcetto d’Acqui La Selva di Moirano.
In an Italian wine world where Nebbiolo always seems to take center stage, many don’t realize that grapes like Dolcetto can also make age-worthy wines that deserve our attention. But Scarpa’s holdings give us ample reason to (re)discover why Nebbiolo isn’t the only native Piedmontese that we should hold in equal esteem.
Case in point: The 2000 Scarpa Dolcetto d’Acqui La Selva di Moirano, currently being served by-the-glass at Perbacco in San Francisco, where Swedish-born chef Staffan Terje blends creative and traditional Italian cooking to create one of the most compelling menus we’ve ever experienced. Hands down, it’s one of the best Italian restaurants in the U.S. if not the world.
As Scarpa’s U.S. importer Ernest Ifkovitz writes on his website, “if it’s grown in the right soil, and picked and vinified with care,” long-term aged Dolcetto can have “elegant tannic structure…, with lots of classic Dolcetto black tea and ink in the nose.”
This year’s release is from the 2000 vintage, a warm growing season that made for rich wines with power and the structure needed for aging. It’s drinking extremely well now. And even better when paired with Staffan’s superb cooking.
Image via the Perbacco Facebook.